Tips for Tucking in your Garden for Winter.


Tucking in a garden for winter is mostly about cleaning up and covering up. Hopefully, your trees  and  shrubs  grew stronger this growing season. But too much water from relentless summer rains or overwatering can lead to weakened growth, which is susceptible to winter die-off.

Given last year’s loss of trees through- out the Front Range due to extreme air-temperature   fluctuations,   getting a garden ready for winter dormancy is prudent. In a normal year, shrubs and trees  prepare  themselves  for  winter in response to shorter days and cooler temperatures. You can help your plants get ready for dormancy by following these steps.

Stop fertilizing in late August to avoid stimulating new growth. (And never overfertilize during the growing season, as this can result in weakened growth, too.)

In September, adjust your automat- ic sprinkler system to irrigate twice a week instead of three times. When you blow out your system for winter, usu- ally in late September or early October, switch to hand watering once a week.

Before the ground freezes, do a final weeding and remove any debris. Keep grows, because long grass covered by deep snows can develop brown patches in spring.

After plants go dormant, hand water only when the soil is dry several inches below the surface. But continue water- ing any fall transplants; their root balls should not dry out during their first au- tumn and winter in the  ground.

This is also a good time to prune bro- ken branches and dieback. Wait to do a thorough pruning until just before new growth appears in spring.

In October, stop deadheading flow- ers. Luckily, our perennial grasses and flowers fared much better than trees and shrubs last winter, because they’re

not as susceptible to air-temperature fluctuations, which brings us to an im- portant point. The reason they fared better is because their growing points, where new cells develop, were tucked away beneath mulch.

It’s very important to mulch again in late fall to keep soil temperatures from swinging erratically, which can cause perennials and grasses to weaken or die. Anything light and fluffy works, such as pine needles (but they’re a pain to clean up come springtime), wood chips, straw, hay or leaves. Rake up tree leaves and lightly run the mower over them to shred them into mulch. Liber- ally spread the mulch beneath shrubs and trees, and over flower and vegeta- ble beds to a depth of 1 to 2 feet.

A lightweight frost blanket is a good option for gravel-mulched rock gardens.

It’s a Wrap

To protect against sunscald, wind- burn, drought and transplant shock, spray specialty evergreens, like dwarf conifers, lavender cotton, arborvitae, broad-leafed evergreen azaleas, rhodo- dendrons,  boxwoods,  euonymus and

hollies, with an anti-transpirant like Wilt-Pruf or Wilt Stop.

Both are natural, nontoxic products derived from pine tree resin. Apply it  in late October after several frosts to ensure these species are fully dormant. Research demonstrates mixed results with these products, but some local gar- deners swear by them.

Wrap young trees with a trunk diam- eter of less than 4 inches with tree wrap to reduce sunscald that can result in deep trunk fissures. Be sure to remove the wrap promptly next spring to pre- vent insects from taking up residence. Or put a cylinder around the trunk of young trees and pack it with straw or shredded leaves.

One nice thing about tucking in your garden for winter is you can stop cutting back perennial flowers and ornamental grasses, as this affords some protection to the plant’s roots. Wait until late win- ter or early spring to resume this chore. Let berries, seedpods and rose hips over- winter on plants to give wildlife shelter and food during the harshest months.

Finally, wash and store your garden gloves and tools. Empty and store flowerpots, drain the fuel tank on your lawn mower, roll up and store garden hoses, and put away sprinkler attachments and nozzles. Then start dreaming of next year’s garden and all the lovely plants that will greet you come spring!

This article is provided by Marcia Tatroe, a Centennial gardener who is passionate about planting drought-tolerant natives for a gardening aesthetic unique to this region. In addition, this article is featured in the Fall 2016 edition of the BBB Community Guide.